Friday, 22 November 2013

December Vogue: Léa Seydoux The Agent Provocateur

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She's got the knockout body and sultry sophistication of all great sex-bombs. But is Léa Seydoux ready to become a lesbian pin-up? By Jo Ellison. Styling by Francesca Burns. 
Léa Seydoux is sitting by a window over-looking a private road in the sixteenth arrondissement, Paris. Her choppy, strawberry-blonde bob is scraped into
a topknot and her face is make-up free. In the flesh, with her womanly contours, sultry Gallic sophistication and an ever-so-slightly contemptuous look in her eyes, she seems less a great beauty than a study in God-given sensuality. But then, a moment later, her expression changes and she flashes a goofily gap-toothed grin that transforms her features completely. The effect is captivating. "She is an enormously gifted girl, enormously beautiful…" says Woody Allen, who cast the 26-year-old as a soulful ingénue opposite Owen Wilson. "Although she only had a few very brief moments in Midnight in Paris, everyone fell in love with her and kept asking me at every screening, 'Who's that girl, who's that girl?'"
Right now, however, the dauphine of French film is explaining how she came to be involved with another, equally eccentric, director in Blue Is the Warmest Colour, a powerfully explicit three-hour film about a lesbian relationship that, this year, jointly won the Palme d'Or for its director, Abdellatif Kechiche, Seydoux and her on-screen partner Adèle Exarchopoulos. It opens here later this month. 
Truly, Blue Is the Warmest Colour is a fearless film and the director's fascination with his young actresses is felt in every frame. His camera pores over their bodies, lingering obsessively on their mouths as they slurp, smoke, sob, snog and have sex of such graphic intimacy and duration that the question of whether lesbians can be "fulfilled" need never be asked again. 
"When you sign on with Abdellatif, you have an idea of the film, but that's all," explains Seydoux conspiratorially, her voice a husk of a whisper. "We read the graphic novel [by Julie Maroh, on which the film is based]. But Abdellatif doesn't work on script. It's very unique. It's not just a film that you do. It's a life commitment. He needs to have a very big intimacy with his actors - an extreme intimacy," she says. "That's his process. To the exclusion of other life - you're totally absorbed in the world of the film."
The absorption required here was unequivocal. Cast as Emma, the older art student who embarks on a relationship with the teenage Adèle, Seydoux prepared for nearly a year before moving to Lille to mooch around the city and undertake painting classes and a strict exercise regimen for the director. The film was shot in chronological order, over five and a half months, with Kechiche making his actors improvise scenes again and again and again until he was satisfied. "Sometimes it was hundreds and hundreds of takes - we could spend one week for one scene," explains Seydoux. "It's very intense. I had to lose all fears."
"We broke the ice doing a sex scene," says her co-star Exarchopoulos of the bravura required for those scenes in which the actors were protected only by prosthetic vaginas. "Everything came naturally, we became close faster than I could imagine, like allies." Although neither actress is a lesbian, their unique experiences bound them especially close. "For the sex scenes we really had to trust each other, but it was easier because we are women so we understood each other," explains Exarchopoulos. Seydoux agrees: "Our relationship was natural - on-screen and off-screen. We were in the same car, on the same journey. We made it together."
Kechiche's directorial methods have been accused in some quarters of being exploitative. Both actresses have gone on record saying they would never work with him again, and Kechiche has responded with impassioned hurt: "The Palme d'Or was a brief moment of happiness, then I felt humiliated, disgraced," he recently told a French magazine. "I live like a curse." 
Yet for all the sound and fury - and there will be more, no doubt, to come - Seydoux is adamant she went into the project with her eyes open. "The thing is, I wanted to do that film. So, even if the process was difficult, that was the process. We're talking about life, and if you want to tell something very strong, you have to suffer."
Thankfully, the suffering has reaped rewards. Seydoux's performance, like her co-star's, is exquisite. And while the sex is explicit, the film has as much to say about class and social tension as it does about sapphic passion. "What I like about the film, and what I found extraordinary, was that it was a very simple story," explains Seydoux. "One camera, two people: it's a very average story, about love, and the end of that love, and the sadness and truth about it."
Seydoux's career has long been cleverly tempered, mixing choice independent roles with more commercial blockbusters. She is also one of those rare actresses who has made successes on both sides of the Atlantic (she will star in Wes Anderson's The Grand Budapest Hotel next year), but Blue Is the Warmest Colour will broaden the stage on which she will work. Refreshingly, she's a big fan of Hollywood: "In America, they are very respectful of your work," she says. "People are not judgemental. They like difference - to be different is a force. In France, you have to be like the girl next door. Show that you are humble, that you're not a star, that you keep a low profile. Even in fashion - girls don't wear make-up." 
Despite today's bare face, Seydoux does wear make-up. And a body like that is hard to make low profile. Seydoux has very particular tastes, both on set - "I love to find how the character is dressed" - and off. "I'm surrounded by people who have very strong taste," she explains. "I don't care if it's good. It's all about personality. I like certain things that I know other people will not like, but I don't care," she smiles. Clothes shopping is a particular weakness, though she's cautious of following fashion too carefully. "I like things to be a bit…" she reaches for the word, "décalé [off-beat]. I might wear the wrong shoes. Or sweater. But I wear exactly what I like."
Today, she is wearing a more masculin/féminin uniform of a Rag & Bone pullover, scarf, patent black brogues, herringbone trousers and a mannish overcoat from Prada that appeal to her current love of all things Nineties. Such modish androgyny is a possible hangover from Blue Is the Warmest Colour, set during that decade, but she has long shed the indigo-coloured rinse which saw the local kids taunting her for being a Smurf. "I was very happy to lose the blue hair," she laughs. "The dye would run down my face so every night I had a blue face."
The youngest of seven, Seydoux was born in 1985 into a powerful French family (her grandfather is chairman of Pathé films, her mother Valerie Schlumberger is a former actress and her father, Henri Seydoux, founded the wireless technology business Parrot) and grew up between France and Senegal. In a rambunctious family, Seydoux was "the quiet one" of her siblings (three sisters, three brothers) and loved Charlie Chaplin and fairy tales. "I found it hard to express myself in the world. I was very shy. I'm still very shy," she admits. "But also when I was a child I could get very… I had this violence…" she glowers. "I still get angry," she continues in her soft, soft voice. "But I don't break things, I'm not hysterical."
Typically of shy children, she found acting a great outlet for her emotions, having given up on her first choice of career, opera singing. "You can express yourself through acting in ways you cannot in real life," she explains. "Music was my first love, but it was difficult for me. It's something that I really love, but I didn't feel that I was so good at it. I can sing well, but I'm not a great singer. When I sing 
I don't feel I'm expressing all the emotions."
It's perhaps ironic that, having dealt with so much lust, passion, jealousy, betrayal, anger and sadness on screen of late, the emotion Seydoux still finds hardest to capture is happiness, or "being light" as she calls it. "I find it hard to be joyful on screen, because I'm so tense," she explains. The deficiency is something she plans to overcome with her next film, a biopic of Yves Saint Laurent (one of two films currently in production), in which she will play Loulou de la Falaise, the fashion muse once described in The New Yorker as "the quintessential Rive Gauche haute bohémienne". Loulou will be Seydoux's first attempt at playing a real-life character. "I've never played a real person, so I'm kind of scared…" She leans forward, her voice once again conspiratorial. "I don't really know her. I know she was an icône, and had a huge personality. And that she was… How would you say? Always in a very good mood."
Like it or not, it seems Seydoux's need for lightness is fast approaching, though it's clear she still cannot decide which is the greatest acting challenge, a tortured lesbian romance or a playful party girl. "Yes," she nods distractedly, before letting loose another goofy smile. "I will have to work on that."
Blue Is the Warmest Colour is released on November 22

Wednesday, 20 November 2013

Mary Katrantzou Makes NEWGEN History

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MARY KATRANTZOU is the first designer to join the British Fashion Council's NEWGEN committee. Today, she meets with the board to decide which talents will receive the initiative's autumn/winter 2014 sponsorship - an accolade she has benefitted from since 2009.
"I'm thrilled that Mary Katrantzou has agreed to join our NEWGEN selection panel, as she's really our ideal poster-girl for how much an original talent can achieve through the scheme," said Sarah Mower, BFC ambassador for emerging talent and chair of the NEWGEN selection committee. "Mary started out selling just a handful of printed shift dresses with NEWGEN at the first London Showroom in Paris in 2009 - now she exports all over the world. She will add the invaluable perspective of someone who knows exactly what it's like, and what it takes, to be a young entrepreneurial designer."
Katrantzou - who yesterday launched her first e-commerce site - will join fellow committee members, from Vogue contributing fashion editor Kate Phelan to BFC CEO Caroline Rush, to form mentoring groups, one-on-one workshops and focused seminars. Other names to have graduated through the NEWGEN process include Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders and Roksanda Ilincic.
"I could not have managed to get where I am today without the support of the BFC and the NEWGEN scheme," said Katrantzou. "They gave me the opportunity to pick up prestigious stockists such as Joyce and Colette from my first season. NEWGEN is an unparalleled scheme and it is an honour to be included on the panel."

Tuesday, 19 November 2013

Miranda Kerr's Photoshopping Denial

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MIRANDA KERR has explained that an image she posted last week which showed her waist looking smaller than usual was posted in error and not Photoshopped by her.
The model posted a picture of herself backstage at last year's Victoria's Secret show, with fellow Angels Doutzen Kroes and Alessandra Ambrosio, wishing the girls good luck for the show which she didn't take part in this year. The first image she posted showed her waist, although not her fellow models' waists, slimmed down - but Kerr insists that it was an honest mistake.
"Hi guys, here is the original VS image!" Kerr wrote, as she posted the undoctored image. "When I re-posted the photo this week to support the girls I screen-grabbed it off the internet when I was working in Japan. I had no idea it was Photoshopped. All good intentions- sorry for the confusion and congratulations to the girls for such a great show!"
The show took place last Wednesday in New York while Kerr was on a promotional tour in Asia with designer Michael Kors.

Saturday, 16 November 2013

Want To Buy Beckham's Wedding Crown?

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THE fairytale gold and diamond crown worn by the then-Victoria Adams when she married David Beckham is soon to go on sale. The tiara - designed by Slim Barrett - will go under the hammer at Bonhams in London on December 5, valued between £18,000 and £25,000.
Named East of Paris, the piece was created using 18-carat latticed yellow gold, set with large brilliant-cut diamonds and suspended diamond drops. It has previously been showcased at the Victoria & Albert Museum and at The Diamond Museum in Antwerp.
"Inspiration for East of Paris came from my love of Eastern design and Parisian haute couture," said Barrett. "I set out to fuse the two styles."
If you were planning to buy a crown, then this is the season to do it - find out how Vogue beauty editor Jessica Hogan wove one into her daytime wardrobehere.

Friday, 15 November 2013

Audrey Hepburn’s Dream Man

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FEMALE models have a habit of making multifaceted brands of their careers, and Nick Hopper is taking their example and raising it: modelling, acting, photography and directing the burgeoningHemsley & Hemsley food and lifestyle business (Jasmine Hemsley is his girlfriend), there's a lot going on. But just now we can't help but like him best for being theman in the car in the Galaxy adstarring Audrey Hepburn.
"I had a good feeling about the audition - the brief wanted a young Gregory Peck and my 94-year-old great aunt, who is my biggest fan, has always insisted I'm a ringer for him," Hopper says. "In the first audition I had to sit on a plastic chair holding a Nintendo game steering wheel and pretend to eye up a piece of paper stuck to the wall."
Filmed over the course of a week on the Amalfi Coast (all of which Hopper documented in pictures), the cast originally included three women to play Hepburn - their mouth, eyes and body to be fused by the wonders of CGI to bring a 1953 version of her to life - but the final cut only includes two: Jenny Ishammar and Lou-Helene Barbry. Shot by Daniel Kleinman, famous for the James Bond title sequences, it subsequently led to another driving role for Hopper in the ads for the new E-class Mercedes - all of which suggests an aspiration to play James Bond one day.
"At the moment I'm loving photography and Hemsley & Hemsley is really going through the roof," says Hopper, who was commissioned by Ebury Press Random House to do the photographs for their forthcoming cookery book - due out next summer. "But there's always a window for Bond of course."
"I've reached that age now, there's a little bit of salt and pepper going on. I wish I'd done the silver beard years ago - it's done me good. But I've turned into one of those people I never wanted to be - a model-slash-actor-slash-photographer-slash-entrepreneur. I love the creative variety and the challenge of it all, but having now run a business of my own I really appreciate the life of a model, which means you just have to turn up, do it and then go home - the lack of responsibility is great."

Wednesday, 13 November 2013

The Olsens: More Ambition Than Money

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MARY-KATE and Ashley Olsenmay have been famous since infanthood, but it doesn't mean that they've been resting on their laurels.
"I think people looked at us with the perception of, 'Oh, you just have everything. You can do whatever.' [Strangers assumed we] had enough money to just do nothing - or why would we go to college? And it's such an uneducated perspective," said the twins, whose empire compounds their ambition. Already the owners of three brands -  The RowElizabeth and James, and Olsenboye - they recently bought a minority stake in e-commerce company Beachmint.com, where they serve as co-chairs.
"We still get the question. The question of: 'So do you like designing?'" Mary-Kate told Allure. "'How involved are you?' It's not like you wake up one day and have a huge company with four or five different companies within the companies." 
Don't stop them now.

Tuesday, 12 November 2013

The Princess And The Pea Coat

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SURPRISE, surprise - with temperatures dropping rapidly, there is no shortage of great coats in the Vogue office but - ahoy! There has never been quite so much synchronicity and the pea coat has emerged as the undisputed style favourite. What is it about this classic that has battled the elements in style for more than 300 years? Or should one try a twist on the perennial, with a longer hem, urban zips or saucer-like buttons, perhaps? The Isabel Marant military style for H&M is a highly anticipated addition to many a Vogue editor's wardrobes, but until its launch on November 13 here are some of the favourite styles voyaging around Hanover Square.

Saturday, 9 November 2013

Pucci Opening Boutiques in Global Fashion Capitals

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The storied Florentine house of Emilio Pucci, which made colorful, kaleidoscopic prints world-famous and once counted Marilyn Monroe as a top client, is embarking on a new chapter.
The house has started an ambitious expansion campaign. It's opened up boutiques across the world's fashion capitals, including New York's Madison Avenue, Rome's Piazza di Spagna, and now on Paris' prestigious Avenue Montaigne. Designer Peter Dundas is meanwhile trying to match the momentum by moving the house in a younger direction.
But will Pucci, founded by the Italian aristocrat in 1947, succeed in shaking off that love-it-or-hate-it retro print that's garish for some, vibrant for others?
"I think that having the strong heritage, yes, it's sometimes a challenge when you want to move forward," admitted Dundas in an interview.
"But I consider myself lucky. There's an advantage having this DNA — an opportunity to expand on it," he added.
"The print is still an important part of the collection, but it includes solids and neutrals now," he added.
The tall, energetic 44-year-old is certainly not one to dwell on to the past.
Dundas has made a name for himself since taking over the design helm in 2007 — and is known for his red carpet showstoppers and celebrity circles, dressing stars like Gwyneth Paltrow and Jennifer Lopez.
Pucci's glitzy new direction is not everyone's cup of tea — especially in Paris, widely considered a more demure fashion capital than Milan. (Like other Italian houses, the Florence-based Pucci's womenswear designs are first shown during Milan's fashion week.)
"The new collections are too bling. I am French. I like the vintage dresses and the timeless Pucci style," said Laetitia Benita, 30, outside Paris' Pucci store.
Chanel's caustic couturier Karl Lagerfeld was more harsh: "I think tattoos are horrible. It's like living in a Pucci dress full-time." Lagerfeld's Chanel boutique stares out almost intimidatingly from across the other side of Avenue Montaigne.
But with the new Paris boutique, Pucci, a house that's particularly popular in Russia, the Middle East and Brazil, will soon find its place on Paris' snooty fashion radar.
The two-level store balances modernity and the house's rich history.
The family headquarters, the 600-year-old Palazzo Pucci in Florence, is evoked in the boutique decor with intricate bronze gilding and with colors on the wall taken from the Renaissance frescos. Elsewhere the Pucci archives are referenced, with the geometric flooring taken from a print called "Tower" and — in a bittersweet touch — the signature "Emilio" appearing as an inlay in the style as it appears on the house's print dresses and soft foulard fabrics.
Emilio Pucci died in 1992. His daughter, Laudomia Pucci, took over design in 1992 and remains as image director and vice-president.
She spoke fondly of her father's legacy, and what she sees as a false perception that the house seemed almost fossilized in the past.
"Certainly my father's career was very strong from the early '50s to the late '70s, and he definitely defined a moment in fashion. We are still defined by that hot pot print," she said.
"Many people who are not so much in the industry sometimes say 'Pucci is only defined by color and print!' Oh but there is so much more. We've just done a collection in black and white," she said, pausing. "But at least they know who we are, and that's something we can build on."

Thursday, 7 November 2013

Kate Vs Harry: Vote For Britain’s Most Stylish Star

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WHO is Britain's most stylish star? The British Fashion Council has asked you to decide, as it opens voting for this year's British Style Award - an accolade always chosen by the public.
The 2013 shortlist - selected by the BFC - features 20 names, some more surprising than others, from Dermot O'Leary, Idris Elba, Jamie Hince and Ben Whishaw to Kate MossDavid BeckhamHarry Styles, the Duchess of Cambridge and Helena Bonham CarterAlexa Chungis noticeably absent from this year's list, after having won the accolade three consecutive years running. However, there is still a chance she may steal the crown again - all you need to do is click on the "Other" optionon the online voting page.
The final winner will be revealed on Monday December 2 at the British Fashion Awards ceremony held at The London Coliseum. 

Tuesday, 5 November 2013

Watch Marks & Spencer’s Fairy-Tale Mash-Up

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M&S Christmas Campaign 2013

MARKS & SPENCER has unveiled its Christmas advert, and - regardless of it being only just November - we challenge you not to feel a little festive after watching the brand's new campaign film. The fairy-tale mash-up featuresHelena Bonham Carter as the Great and Powerful Oz (who else?),David Gandy as both the Mad Hatter and also Aladdin (a strange, yet attractive, combination), and the label's star design collaborator, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, as Alice in Wonderland, Princess Jasmine, Dorothy Gale and Little Red Riding Hood - with accompanying costume changes, naturally.
Go behind the scenes and see the film being shot, then watch the magical short above. Fireworks night may not even be over yet, but for M&S at least, the holidays are coming…

Monday, 28 October 2013

Google Celebrates Edith Head

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EDITH HEAD, one of Hollywood's most legendary costume designers, is being celebrated today by Google - which has created a doodle on what would have been Head's 116thbirthday, on its home page. The search engine has launched an image of the designer standing in front of six of her creations.
Head won eight Oscars for her costumes - the most Academy Awards ever won by a woman. She created the wardrobe for celebrated films, such asFunny Face, Sabrina, Roman Holiday, Carrie, All About Eve and To Catch A Thief - and dressed some of cinema's most glamorous stars, from Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly to Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren.
Head - who was brn in California in 1897 - started her career as a French teacher, before being hired as costume sketch artist for Paramount Pictures - borrowing a friend's sketches to help land her the job. She worked at Paramount for 43 years until she joined Universal in 1967. She died of bone marrow disease, aged 83, on October 24, 1981.
It is thought that Head was the inspiration for the part of superhero costume designer Edna Mode in 2004 children's film The Incredibles - although this was never confirmed by its director, Brad Bird.